Europe Travel · November 12, 2024

Paris in Autumn: A Guide

 

I don’t think there is a city in the world that doesn’t look heavenly under the glowy guise of autumn.

The orange, yellow and red leaves. The low sunlight that catches through what’s left on the trees, and the kind of cold that leaves your cheeks simultaneously rosy and cold to touch at the same time. Steamed up windows through warmly lit cafes, coat weather, tights weather and light mornings blending with short afternoons. The season in which I flirt with the idea of becoming a sophisticated woman who listens to jazz and carries a worn in hardback in my handbag. One year it’ll happen! But regardless, it really feels like a special time of year.

One city that especially twinkles during this time of year is Paris, naturellement. “What time of year does Paris not look good?!” I hear you cry! But in the autumn, there’s just something. A seasonal je ne sais quoi.

Now, I have very fortunately had the pleasure of visiting this magical city three times this year (I am very much still pinching myself)- two of which were in October, and at a time where the city was truly lit with a sepia glow (which could have been just my orange-tinted-love-glasses, but I’m pretty sure it was!)

Anyway! Having gone for both work and with friends, I’ve been able to collect a handful of rather lovely recommendations; whether that’s for fresh crusty baguettes stacked with ham and cheese, the thickest most luxurious hot chocolates to sip whilst you people watch from the pavement or the coolest brands for vintage inspired clothing- so of course, I had to share them here (many thanks to Abi, Kerry, Sarah and Harmony for contributing here). What could be autumnal than cosying up in the Jardin du Luxembourg/Tuileries Garden with a book and a baguette in the late afternoon sunshine?! Although I haven’t been able to tick all of them off (the ones I haven’t tried I’ll mark with an *) I thought I’d pop a little updated guide here. So much changes so often in these wonderful cities of ours, so it’s nice to come back to guides when I can (especially as so many of you are the ones who help with these gorgeous suggestions too)! So! Without further ado…

 

 

 

 

 

The food! The pastries!

Brasserie l’Emil: Modern takes on traditional French dishes, situated in the painfully chic Chateau Voltaire. Truly delicious!

Chez Janou*: Delightful traditional bistro with a rumoured iconic chocolate mousse.

Brasserie Lipp:*: Traditional French fare, focussing on excellent quality.

Mamiche Bakery: Oh me, oh my! These sandwiches! These cakes! The pastries! There’s a reason there’s a queue here (and it’s also in a really cool [art of town for a mooch too).

Blondie*: Opposite Mamiche, I haven’t been but heard it’s also very good (and great if the queue is just a little large!

The Smiths Bakery: A generous Abi recommendation, the quiche and pistachio loaf cake are both sensational.

 

 

Boris Lumé Boulangerie: A very beautiful little French patisserie which is apparently just as delicious to eat at as it looks from the outside.

Café Renoir*: Tucked inside the garden of the Musée de Montmartre, this would be a gorgeous hidden lunch spot.

Caffè Stern*: Italian style coffee house and bistro.

Café de Flore: About as unknown as The Beatles, despite being a bit of a tourist trap the breakfast, dippy eggs and hot chocolate are all very very good and it’s popular for a reason.

Treize Bakery Paris*: A little slice of garden heaven in the shape of a tea parlour (oooerr!) for the perfect ladylike afternoon overlooking the Luxembourg gardens.

 

 

 

La Poule au Pot: A cosy, traditional French restaurant with *the* most sensational frites and creme brûlée (plus a lot of fun celebrity names on the wall you can work through)!

La Terrasse de Madame*: Tucked in the middle of the Jardin du Luxembourg, apparently this spot has some very lovely cocktails on offer.

Pierre Hermé: Truly *chefs kiss* macarons.

Recto Verso: For coffee lovers, this is a very trendy little spot.

Café les Deux Gares: Brain child of Luke Edward Hall and the perfect cafe/coffee spot, plus a lovely place to sit outside and people watch near the station.

 

The drinks!

Aux Deux Amis*: Small plates and natural wines perfect for people watching (just pack a scarf)!

Folderol*: I may know very little about wine, but I know a *lot* about ice cream, and this place specialises in both.

 

 

Faire du shopping!

Merci: Can you do a shopping recommendation in Paris without including Merci!? It was my first time downstairs and BOY OH BOY.

La Grande Épicerie de Paris: THE most amazing supermarket ever, I could have spent hours in here. You can can also get your butter vacuum packed to take home- tres bien!

L’Écume des Pages: A very lovely book shop to peruse with stationery too.

Bourgine: Handmade sixties and retro inspired pieces, crafted so beautifully.

 

 

Thank God I’m A VIP*: This was sadly closed when we walked past, but I hear the vintage here is heavenly (according to my very savvy pal, Kerry)!

Marin Montagut*: A shop filled with things to make your heart flutter, mainly for the home.

Passage des Panoramas & Galerie Vivienne*: A couple of the most beautiful covered passageways in Paris, perfect for a rainy afternoon mooch.

 

 

Jousseaume Bookstore*: A truly beautiful bookshop in the Galerie Vivienne.

À la Mère de Famille*: As chocolate shops go, this one looks like it’s straight from a Paul King film. Play, ‘You’ve Never Had Chocolate Like This!’

City Pharma: Excellent selection of well priced skincare and beauty; make sure to go with a shopping list!

 

 

 

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